Signature Dish: Crabcakes bring memories of a master to head chef at 424 Walnut in Sewickley

This is part of an ongoing series highlighting Signature Dishes at locally-owned restaurants in the region. See Trib Total Media’s new online directory of restaurants, Dine Local, at dinelocal.triblive.com.

Jimmy Zipparo, head chef and co-owner of 424 Walnut, cannot help but feel a little nostalgic making some of the meals at the Sewickley restaurant.

The borough resident with more than 30 years in the culinary industry learned the craft under the tutelage of Chef Nick Fusco during the 1980s.

One of the dishes that became a point of pride for the apprentice was the master’s crabcakes.

“It’s stuck with me wherever I’ve gone,” said Zipparo, 56. “It’s probably one of our number one sellers. I always call it the Carolina crabcake because of him. He trained me on making them and I tweaked them into my own little thing. They’re gluten-free. There’s no filler in them at all. It’s all 100% crab.”

The 4- to 5-ounce patties are made with lump and jumbo lump crab meat and oven-baked to perfection. They are seasoned with about a dozen herbs and spices and served either as a single ($32) or duo ($42) with a honey mustard sauce, a slice of lemon and the vegetable and starch of the day.

Nearly 25 pounds of crabcakes are served weekly at 424 Walnut.

Zipparo said Fusco’s training comes to mind whenever such a plate is made.

“I think about him all the time,” Zipparo said. “When I got interested in food, someone mentioned how good of a chef he is and I went down to the restaurant and met him. We talked. We sort of bonded. I trained for a couple years … Me and him remained close.”

Fusco, a longtime chef at the Pittsburgh Hilton, opened Fusco’s Restaurant in Stowe Township in the early 1980s and taught culinary classes at the Community College of Allegheny County. In 1986, he moved the family to Myrtle Beach, where they opened up shop at the Beach Colony Resort and ran a restaurant for 21 years.

Zipparo said he would often visit his mentor during those years and even helped cook annually. A member of the Academy of Chefs and several other groups, Fusco died March 28, 2009, at his home after a battle with ALS. He was 70.

Zipparo ran what was the Sweetwater Grille in Sewickley for about seven years before joining forces with Joe Piccirilli in 2013. The pair reopened the business as 424 Walnut.

They also partner with nearby organizations such as Sweetwater Center for the Arts for special occasions, such as providing Valentine’s meals to local families.

Other menu standouts include the veal piccata or veal and peppers ($32), hand-cut Santa Carota prime New York strip steak ($49) and the chicken penne ($23). The chicken penne is touted as an original creation with chargrilled, sauteed sweet bell and onions over baby spinach topped with crumbled blue cheese.

Zipparo said they like to change the menu with the seasons, but the aforementioned meals will remain available.

The outdoor dining area was also recently upgraded.

424 Walnut (424 Walnut St.) is open 4-8 p.m. Tuesdays through Thursdays and 4-9 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Call 412-741-7143 or go to 424walnut.net for more information.