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Women brewers highlighted at Craft Beverage Expo in Pittsburgh

JoAnne Klimovich Harrop
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JoAnne Klimovich Harrop | Tribune-Review
Nina Santiago, of Brookline, the lead brewer at Necromancer Brewing Co. in Ross, poses for a photo at the brewery on March 15.
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JoAnne Klimovich Harrop | Tribune-Review
Nina Santiago, of Brookline, the lead brewer at Necromancer Brewing Co. in Ross, works in the brewery on March 15.
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Courtesy of The Pittsburgh Beer Ladies
Kayla Geahry, of New Kensington, an assistant brewer at Allusion Brewing Co. in Vandergrift, checks on a beer.
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Courtesy of Laurel Clark
Kayla Geahry, (left) of New Kensington, is an assistant brewer at Allusion Brewing Co. in Vandergrift .
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Courtesy of East End Brewing Co.
Alison Zavacky of Millvale, head of canning operations at East End Brewing Co. in Larimer, poses for a photo at the brewery.
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Courtesy of Julie Kahlbaugh
Nina Santiago is lead brewer at Necromancer Brewing Co. in Ross. Santiago learned about the industry through a vocational program at Trace Brewing in Bloomfield, a six month paid opportunity to gain experience in all aspects of the brewing process.
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Courtesy of Caiti Sullivan
Caiti Sullivan, who owns Coven Brewing in Lawrenceville, adds hops to a kettle during the beer-making process.
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Courtesy of Caiti Sullivan
Caiti Sullivan, owner of Coven Brewing in Lawrenceville, poses for a photo holding a beer.
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Courtesy of Caiti Sullivan
Both a brewer and owner Caiti Sullivan opened Coven Brewing in Lawrenceville in April 2022.

When it comes to the craft brewing industry, it’s no longer just a man’s world.

“There are more women in the industry than people realize,” said Jen Walzer, owner of Inner Groove Brewing in Verona and Allentown and a board member of the Pittsburgh Brewers Guild. “There are head brewers and assistant brewers who are women.”

Women will be highlighted at the Craft Beverage Expo and Distribution Conference being held at the David L. Lawrence Convention Center, Downtown Pittsburgh, Wednesday through Sunday.

The expo portion is Wednesday through Friday and will focus on small-batch beverages and the issues that producers face. A Women in Craft forum on Wednesday will highlight topics unique to women in the craft beverage industry. On Friday, there will be tastings by craft beverage vendors from across Allegheny County and an opportunity to taste local bites with an expanded ticket option.

Allegheny County has more than 40 breweries, according to Pittsburgh Brewers Guild.

Walzer said having more women in the business is good, because they reflect the clientele.

“Women give a fresh perspective,” Walzer said. “It was once thought that beer is a guy’s world, but not anymore.”

Begins with home brewing

Lauren Hughes, head brewer at Necromancer Brewing Co. in Ross, is a panelist for the forum. She left a job with the Pittsburgh Symphony Orchestra and will share her story.

“I had always been a home brewer,” Hughes said. “I love making beer because I get to experiment. It’s about making each beer better. I kept pushing myself. I love working at Necromancer because the brewery supports all people.”

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JoAnne Klimovich Harrop | Tribune-Review
Lauren Hughes, of Greenfield, the head brewer at Necromancer Brewing Co. in Ross, poses for a photo on March 15.

Nina Santiago, lead brewer at Necromancer, said diversity is important.

“We bring a different perspective, and it shows we are all valued,” Santiago said.

Part of a team

Kayla Geahry of New Kensington started as a bartender at Allusion Brewing Co. in Vandergrift. Geahry often talked with head brewer John Bieranoski, who invited Geahry her to learn more.

“Brewing beer is a labor of love,” Geahry said. “It is humbling as well. You are not in charge — the beer is in charge. Listen to it, and roll with what it gives you.”

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Courtesy of The Pittsburgh Beer Ladies
Kayla Geahry, of New Kensington, an assistant brewer Allusion Brewing Co. in Vandergrift, poses for a photo.

At East End Brewing Co. in Larimer and its taproom in Mt. Lebanon, head of canning operations is Alison Zavacky. Chef Sheryl Johnston runs the kitchen.

“I think it is good to have the visibility to show this can be a career path,” Zavacky said. “It’s great to be involved in the local beer scene.”

“It is important to have customers see women working in this industry because a lot of breweries are more male dominated and if we don’t make changes, then women will feel uncomfortable working in this business,” Johnston said.

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Courtesy of East End Brewing Co.
Sheryl Johnston, of Larimer, chef at East End Brewing Co. in Larimer, poses for a photo at the brewery with a pizza of the week.

A comfortable atmosphere is needed, not just in brewing, but everywhere, said Day Bracey, founder of Barrel & Flow, a Black brew festival.

“It has been my experience as a Black man trying to break into the industry that there is a connection with women,” Bracey said. “They have an understanding of being oppressed and not having a fair shake. Women are half the population. If you are actually engaging women and paying them and showcasing their work, that builds a better product for everyone.”

Chardae Jones, former mayor of Braddock, is a board member at Barrel & Flow.

“If they are not letting you at the table, pull up a chair and take a seat,” Jones said. “I really hope we are putting a spotlight on diversity.”

Vocational program

Through a vocational program at Trace Brewing in Bloomfield, people can learn the business through a six month paid position, which co-owner Dave Kushner said “gives folks who are marginalized a chance to get their foot in the door of a male-dominated industry.”

Brooke Keane is senior communications and beer story teller for Trace.

“Beer is more than liquid in a glass,” Keane said. “There are flavors and fruits and seasonal profiles and styles. The smell of a beer might bring back a memory to a special moment in your life.”

Katie Siffrinn left a nursing career and worked up from packaging to become a brewer at Dancing Gnome Brewery in Sharpsburg.

“Breweries are fascinating to me,” Siffrinn said. “From a social standpoint they are a communal thing. They are places to connect with friends and catch up while sharing a pint. Breweries here are very inclusive.”

A new brewery

Megan Seastedt is opening Abstract Brewing Co. in Hazelwood sometime this year. Venturing into this industry takes guts, willpower and tough skin, Seastedt said.

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Courtesy of Megan Seastedt
Megan Seastedt, of Wilkinsburg, is opening Abstract Brewing Co. in Hazelwood sometime this year.

Seastedt started the local chapter of the Pink Boots Society, which encourages women and non-binary individuals in the beverage industry through education, and co- founded the equity and inclusion committee while on the Pennsylvania State Brewers Guild board.

“The passion for what you want to do outweighs any sort of challenge you could face,” said Seastedt, who will be a presenter at one of the sessions. “It’s not easy. There were definitely a lot of tears along the way. But I have the tenacity and desire to keep moving forward.”

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Courtesy of Caiti Sullivan
Owner Caiti Sullivan stirs a mash in a mash tun, a process of adding hot water to grain to extract sugars that will later ferment into beer, at Coven Brewing in Lawrenceville.

Brewer and owner Caiti Sullivan started Coven Brewing in Lawrenceville a year ago. Sullivan started in kombucha sales and said that the job often has weird hours and doesn’t pay well at first. Some women when they have children often can’t make that schedule work, Sullivan said.

“I love that Pittsburgh is hosting this conference,” Sullivan said. “There is a lot of positive energy bubbling up in the city’s brewing industry. I love that we have so many breweries. We respect each other. What’s that saying? ‘A rising tide lifts all boats.’”

JoAnne Klimovich Harrop is a TribLive reporter covering the region’s diverse culinary scene and unique homes. She writes features about interesting people. The Edward R. Murrow award-winning journalist began her career as a sports reporter. She has been with the Trib for 26 years and is the author of “A Daughter’s Promise.” She can be reached at jharrop@triblive.com.

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